In 1952, Jack O’Neill opened the worlds first Surf Shop in San Francisco. Jack is the founder of O’Neill Inc., and the inventor of the wetsuit. Due to a surfing accident in 1972, Jack O’Neill lost an eye, and as a result, invented the leg leash in 1973.
The oldest surfboard still in existence is on display in Hawaii’s Bishop Museum and dates back to 1778.
The original Hawaiian surfboards hand carved from trees and varied in length from 3-16 feet on average. The length of your surfboard was determined by your social rank. So, the longer surfboards were for the Royal family, and the shorter were for the peasants. These shorter boards however were still in the 10-12 foot range.
These surfboards were made from trees and were solid. They could range in weight to more than 100 pounds! The boards had no fins and went in one direction only, straight ahead.
By the beginning of the 20th century surfing in Hawaii had surge in popularity, mainly due to the famous Duke Kahanamoku, who brough surfing to the world’s attention.
Europeans and Americans then began to participate in the sport, and it wasn’t long before the surfboard began to be redesigned.
The first important milestone in the history of the surfboard was the establishment of a more practical and user-friendly length and weight. This was achieved by chopping the older style surfboards in half.
At this stage, the surfboards were being made out of redwood, but in the 1920’s balsa started to be used instead as it was a much lighter wood and was more readily available.